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Pal to NTSC? |
Sinbios - May 16, 2004 |
Sinbios | May 16, 2004 | |||
does the country code converter convert from pal to ntsc, or is it something different? |
Djidjo | May 17, 2004 | |||
The only way to change between PAL and NTSC is to add a switch. No cart can do this. |
Twillinx | May 17, 2004 | |||
Know of any good sites that show this kind of mod? (Pal to NTSC) |
Djidjo | May 18, 2004 | |||
http://users.skynet.be/DuNe/Console/saturn...urn-m... |
trenal | May 25, 2004 | |||
I seem to have fixed the problem now and it appears to be heat related. I took the case off the top of the saturn and it ran in 60HZ for around 3 hours straight till i turned it off, with the case back on its the same deal of it lasting around 20mins till it auto switches back to 50Hz after blanking out. So its either keep the case off or install possibly a PC fan inside? Anyone put a fan in their saturn? Should be easy enough using the same 5v source the modboard uses I would think. So anyway would the 50 to 60Hz mod require that much more power from a PAL saturns PSU to cause overheating problems that were'nt present prior to the mod? It definitly seems so in this case. Trenal. |
Twillinx | May 25, 2004 | |||
The page isn't working any longer. I've read another guide about it, and seen the cut track, but is that all you have to do to make the Saturn go into 60 hz? Everywere I read it says with 5 Volts it goes into 60 hz and if grounded 50 hz. |
fistandantilus | May 25, 2004 | |||
cutting the track is not enough. You have left the chip pin signal in limbo, where background charge will effect the balance of the signal to the chip. obviously this is what is causing the flickering after time , not heat. . Not sure which it is meant to be, ground or 5V but you need to solder the cut wire to either Ground or 5V, the opposite to what it was before |
trenal | May 26, 2004 | |||
Thanks for all the info. I havent touched it since I put a fan in because it hasnt failed once on me in a few days of games playing. If it starts to play up again I'll try applying groud to the point (by cutting the track werent we cutting the 5v? so I would assume ground is what it needs, could be the opposite though as suggested, I havent seen this info anywhere) Also the fact that it use to work flawlessly for 20-30 min w/o the fan was a bit wierd, I mean if the point in question strictly required either 5v or ground supplied to it and neither is wouldnt the system be affected straight away? Thats why I assumed a heat problem. I thought that point close to the cut track was only used if installing a switch for 50/60hz switching. In that earlier thread thats 7 pages long that discusses this mod the diagram in there just shows to cut the track if u dont need to switch back to 50Hz. So far so good with the fan inside and case on though, I used a fan from a broken dreamcast which fit inside the case and used the saturn power supply fine. |
fistandantilus | May 27, 2004 | |||
Common misconception, when a signal needs to be 0v or grounded cutting the wire is not what is required. Easier to think of ground as -0v which would only be got if you connected to the negative end of the battery so to speak. edit - The bridge needs to be connected to 5v , not ground for the 60Hz mode. The above statement is still valid though. |
Twillinx | May 27, 2004 | |||
Saturn Mod... Basically, the vertical refresh rate/picture size of the Saturn is determined by the logic value at pin 79 of the VDP-1 chip. If it's 0 (ground) the Saturn runs at 50Hz, if it's 1 (+5.2V) the Saturn runs at 60Hz. Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the 79th pin and do the soldering right there? Is it possible to the mod that way? Of course by still connecting it to either Ground or +5.2V. |
fistandantilus | May 28, 2004 | |||
Cutting the pin leg and soldering to it is not such a good idea for a number of reasons. One, you risk damaging the chip's other legs when cutting the leg. Two, ic's are heat sensitive, especially surface mounted chips which are soldered at very exact temperture by very advanced machines that heat the solder on the board then quickly attach the chip, so its not wise for an amatuer with more than likely a general purpose soldering iron to even attempt. The further away from the chip you are with the soldering iron the better. Three, if you catch the wire later on when dismantling the saturn for maybe another reason you risk pulling the leg off and then your in trouble. A lifted track can be traced further down the line and bridged, you lose a chip leg and your up that famous creak. The guide that was linked earlier is a very forgiving way to mod the saturn. I did this 2 days ago successfully, the wire I soldered on is taped flat to the board all but eliminating the chance of it snagging if i do an future mods or maintainance.. |
trenal | May 29, 2004 | |||
Ended up adding the 50/60Hz switch since I noticed those PAL optimized games like VF2 were being affected by the 60Hz only mode. |